Holdings Information
Surf science : an introduction to waves for surfing / Tony Butt.
Bibliographic Record Display
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Title:Surf science : an introduction to waves for surfing / Tony Butt.
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Author/Creator:Butt, Tony, author.
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Published/Created:Honolulu : University of Hawaiʻi Press, [2014]
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Holdings
Holdings Record Display
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Location:WOODWARD LIBRARY stacksWhere is this?
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Call Number: GC211.2 .B88 2014
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Number of Items:1
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Status:Available
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Location:WOODWARD LIBRARY stacksWhere is this?
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Library of Congress Subjects:Ocean waves.
Wave-motion, Theory of.
Surfing.
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Edition:Third edition.
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Description:136 pages : color illustrations ; 25 cm
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Summary:Have you ever wondered where surfing waves come from, what makes every wave different, why some peel perfectly and others just close out; why, some days, the waves come in sets and other days they don't, and how the tides, the wind and the shape of the sea floor affect the waves for surfing? If you have, this book is for you. Now in its third edition, Surf Science is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer's point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks, and will help you learn how to predict surf. Surf Science is also a useful introduction to oceanography and the science of waves. You don't need a scientific background to read it - just curiosity and a fascination for waves.
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Notes:Includes bibliographical references and index.
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ISBN:9780824839543 (pbk. : alk. paper)
0824839544 (pbk. : alk. paper)
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Contents:Machine generated contents note: 1. Introduction
2. Large-scale Air Movements
3. Formation of a Depression
4. Growth of Waves on the Ocean
5. Propagation of Free-travelling Swell
6. Waves in Shallow Water
7. Wave-breaking
8. Temperature of the Water
9. Local Winds on the Coast
10. Tides
11. Rips
12. Forecasting 1: Basics
13. Forecasting 2: Inside the Black Box
14. Forecasting 3: Surfing in the Storm.