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    Surf science : an introduction to waves for surfing / Tony Butt.

    • Title:Surf science : an introduction to waves for surfing / Tony Butt.
    •    
    • Author/Creator:Butt, Tony, author.
    • Published/Created:Honolulu : University of HawaiĘ»i Press, [2014]
    • Holdings

       
    • Library of Congress Subjects:Ocean waves.
      Wave-motion, Theory of.
      Surfing.
    • Edition:Third edition.
    • Description:136 pages : color illustrations ; 25 cm
    • Summary:Have you ever wondered where surfing waves come from, what makes every wave different, why some peel perfectly and others just close out; why, some days, the waves come in sets and other days they don't, and how the tides, the wind and the shape of the sea floor affect the waves for surfing? If you have, this book is for you. Now in its third edition, Surf Science is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer's point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks, and will help you learn how to predict surf. Surf Science is also a useful introduction to oceanography and the science of waves. You don't need a scientific background to read it - just curiosity and a fascination for waves.
    • Notes:Includes bibliographical references and index.
    • ISBN:9780824839543 (pbk. : alk. paper)
      0824839544 (pbk. : alk. paper)
    • Contents:Machine generated contents note: 1. Introduction
      2. Large-scale Air Movements
      3. Formation of a Depression
      4. Growth of Waves on the Ocean
      5. Propagation of Free-travelling Swell
      6. Waves in Shallow Water
      7. Wave-breaking
      8. Temperature of the Water
      9. Local Winds on the Coast
      10. Tides
      11. Rips
      12. Forecasting 1: Basics
      13. Forecasting 2: Inside the Black Box
      14. Forecasting 3: Surfing in the Storm.
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